SOUTH WEST LOMBOK

THE MAGICAL SOUTHWEST GILIS

Floating in the sparkling blue waters just off the southwest coast are thirteen small islands called the Southwest Gilis. Some argue there are more than thirteen and some say slightly less; as there are a number of coral atolls and islands-still-in-the-making, but thirteen are large enough to qualify as islands. Unlike the famous Gili islands in the northwest of Lombok, the Southwest Gilis are largely uninhabited and have yet to be discovered by most travellers, thus they are often called “The Secret Islands”.

Last week we spent several days exploring these delightful coral islands, staying at Secret Island Resort on the island of Gili Gede. Gili Gede (the name means “Big Island” in local Bahasa Sasak) is aptly named: it is a huge island located just offshore from Tembowong, around five minutes drive south of the Sundancer Resort in Sekotong. It only takes a few minutes to reach the island by boat, and transfers and accommodation can be arranged by Secret Island Resort.

The Resort itself is spread over a small hill looking back toward the mainland and, on the other side, across to the islands sprinkled in the water further south. Rooms are basic but comfortable, and prices for cottages and the family villa are very reasonable. Secret Island is the dream come true for owners, Peter and Titin, who run the Resort and provide information and hospitality to visitors to the Southwest Gilis. Titien is an amazing cook, turning out delicious meals for guests; her fresh fish with Balinese sauce prompted The Lonely Planet to describe the seafood here as “Dynamite!”

Meanwhile, Peter is most happy dispensing information and ferrying visitors around in his pride and joy: a 9m purpose-built fishing and diving boat named “Scorpio”. He regularly arranges transfers onboard Scorpio between Bali and Lombok, or between Senggigi and the Southwest Gilis, as well as escorting tours to the best snorkelling and fishing areas in the southwest. And so it was that we found ourselves in the company of two lucky tourists, one French and one Canadian, being taken on a very special island hopping and snorkelling tour of some of Peter’s favourite Southwest Gilis.

The entire area is a feast for the eyes, with myriad islands surrounded by swaying coconut palms, white sand beaches, coral reefs and clear turquoise waters. Very few are inhabited, with only Gili Gede and Gili Nanggu (near Taun) having accommodation for travellers at present. Small villages of friendly fishing communities are the norm and, most of the time, you will have the entire beach or even the island, to yourself!

But it is the snorkelling and diving opportunities that make this area so special and ripe for tourism development. The coral is in pristine condition, with numerous reefs located just off shore at most islands, and filled with colourful hard and soft coral species. Countless schools of tropical fish, rays and turtles swim in the unpolluted waters, where visibility often extends to 20 metres or more in good weather.

For the most part, the waters are fairly calm, being protected by the contours of the mainland and with currents broken by the many islands in close proximity, making the area ideal for swimming, snorkelling, diving and island hopping. At present, Dive Zone is the only dive company that operates in the area, with professional dive instruction and dive trips available from their office at Sundancer Resort in Sekotong. We met a boat load of happy tourists on Gili Ringgit, out for the day with Dive Zone, who described the diving as some of the best they’ve ever experienced. Most couldn’t stop gushing about the huge school of turtles they had just swum with near Gili Layar!
It’s easy to imagine hotels and resorts on all these islands, in the future, as well as yachts, fishing boats, windsurfers, dive boats and the like. But for now, the Southwest Gilis remain the secret islands… stunningly beautiful, pristine and unique; and known to the lucky few…

Banyumulek, easily reached on the road south to Lembar Harbour, is an important centre for pottery on Lombok. The small village is packed with shops selling pottery produced in the area, as well as from the other main pottery-making villages such as Penujak and Masbagik. Lombok pottery, with its distinctive terracotta styles, has become famous internationally and is exported throughout the world. Wander the streets here and see the pottery being made and fired using traditional methods. Visit the small workshops out the back of some of the shops to see the products being decorated and finished by hand. Lombok pottery makes a great souvenir or gift to carry home, and the shops can arrange shipping to almost any country for larger items and export.

Lembar Harbour is the main port on Lombok, about 20kms south of Mataram. This large natural harbour is surrounded by hills and picturesque scenery. Public ferries make the crossing to Padangbai Harbour on Bali approximately every two hours, 24 hours per day. Boats can also be chartered from here out to Gili Nanggu and the southwest islands.

Sekotong is a picturesque area on the southwest coast, where the waters are turquoise and the sand blindingly white. The large calm bay just before Taun (Sekotong Barat) is one of the most beautiful on Lombok, reminiscent of the Caribbean. This is an ideal base for exploring the southwest coast.

Just off the coast lie three small islands: Gili Nanggu, Gili Sudat and Gili Tangkong. Gili Nanggu, with its soft white sand and sparkling clear waters, has a small hotel with basic accommodation and the island is perfect as a castaway escape, with reasonable snorkelling off the beach. There is a sign-posted parking area at Sekotong Barat where small boats can be chartered to explore these lovely islands.